If the brick has lost its glaze, it’s vulnerable to water migrating into its body. Seal the brick with a clear sealer. Chipped brick is also a tip-off that water has intruded and frozen. Treat a chipped brick as you would a damaged brick—replace it. If you have ivy growing up the wall, its tendrils won’t damage mortar that’s in good repair, but the foliage can hide potential problems. Check the wall in the spring before leaves appear. You’ll need about two hours to replace a brick or a block. Before you begin, learn how to chisel, mix mortar, and point mortar. To avoid collapsing a section of wall, replace only a few bricks at a time. Recently placed mortar is particularly prone to developing efflorescence, especially if it rained while the wall was under construction. This type of efflorescence usually goes away on its own within a year. Poorly finished (or maintained) mortar joints and poor seals that allow water in around moldings and flashings cause the efflorescence on older structures. If efflorescence is found near the ground, the problem may be due to poor drainage in the soil around the foundation of the structure. Before treating the efflorescence, deal with its cause. Make sure the wall dries completely between rains.
